In the last post I discussed the term Downeast Maine. Well, go as far downeast as you can and you reach the area where the Maine and New Brunswick coasts, along with Campobello Island, meet. This is where you will find Cobscook Bay. Cobscook Bay is an inland bay fed by the tides of Passamaquoddy Bay and the Bay of Fundy. Unlike Passamaquoddy Bay (20-30 foot tide range) and the Bay of Fundy (30-40 foot range) this bay has a more moderate average tide range of 24 feet.
From many of the sites in the state park you can launch a kayak at just about any tide, and even at low tide the bay is navigable except for some of the smaller inlets and channels. That’s why we are here. That, and the large populations of bald eagles, harbor and grey seals, and numerous birds.
The name Cobscook is the Passamaquoddy name for “Boiling Tide”. An apt name when you visit Reversing Falls. A short drive to near Eastport, reportedly the eastermost city in the U.S., and a short walk down a rocky trail, took us to the falls.
The falls are created when the incoming, or outgoing, tide passes over a band of rocks in a channel. The channel is several hundred feet across, with a gap on the far side that creates a series of rapids as the water rushes around the falls. The falls roar for hours as the bay either fills or empties, followed by a short period of eerie quiet at slack tide, then back to roaring in the other direction. Suffice it to say that it is hard to describe, but wonderful to watch, and you should go see it if you ever get the chance.
Reversing Falls are about 3 miles, by kayak, from the campground. We will look into the possibility of kayaking out there later in the week. Being able to launch at just about any tide level, gave us the opportunity for some early morning paddling while the fog was still sitting in the bay.
One of the marvelous things about kayaking on the ocean, or ocean bays, is that the sounds, light, and surface conditions change constantly and every day is a new adventure.
One of the campers at Cobscook, builds rock art sculptures and this sculpture, we dubbed “The Sea Nymph”, was still standing when we left after two weeks.
Each day’s paddle in Cobscook Bay brought new delights. I mean, really, how often does one get to watch eagles fishing.
The bay is relatively unihabited, (it’s mostly State owned land) so there are numerous places to land and explore this beautiful coast.
Just up the road a piece from the State Park there is a rail trail that runs from Dennysville to Machais, about 20 miles. The surface is a bit rough for biking (It is mainly used as a snowmobile corridor), but we figured it would be nice for a short ride. We rode about 10 miles, 20 round trip.
The trail meanders through woods and meadows, with numerous stream crossings and ponds, and some great old bridges.
There’s more to come from our two weeks at Cobscook Bay State Park.